Discussion:
Stripping stock of a SIlver Pigeon....
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m***@hotmail.com
2006-10-09 15:08:09 UTC
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I've bough a s/h Beretta Silver Pigeon 20b for my lads.. The stock is
varnished, but looking a bit sad and in need of TLC.

I was hoping to strip & oil it - any ideas on how to do this?

Thanks

Mike
+.com (A.Lee)
2006-10-09 15:48:45 UTC
Permalink
Post by m***@hotmail.com
I've bough a s/h Beretta Silver Pigeon 20b for my lads.. The stock is
varnished, but looking a bit sad and in need of TLC.
I was hoping to strip & oil it - any ideas on how to do this?
I did an air-rifle stock last year, and it was the most time consuming,
boring, fiddly job ever invented.
Firstly I tried paint stripper to get off the varnish (later I found it
was both a varnish and dye). The stripper didnt even make it bubble.
Then came the electric sander.If you have 20 hours, and 40+ sanding
sheets available, that'll do it.
Finally I started scraping it off with a blade.This took 2 weeks of on
and off work.Maybe 2 hours if you are keen enough to do it in one go.
After the paint and varnish was all off, the stock looks rough, and will
need a lot of sanding.An electric sander does help here.
Once it is smooth, you then go over it with finer sandpaper, then when
really smooth, some wire wool.

I've since learnt that there is a product that will strip varnish and
dye in one go, so that would help enormously.

Next comes the oiling. Reckon on 10 coats for a bare wood.I treid
linseed oil, then proper walnut stock oil.I couldnt really tell the
difference, apart from the differing smells, and the 10x dearer cost of
the walnut oil.

I'm doing another air rifle stock this winter, if the dye/varnish doesnt
come off with a good paint stripper, then it is staying as it is, as I
just havent got the inclination to spend a month trying to get a stock
looking right.
Alan.
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To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.
Derek
2006-10-11 21:44:17 UTC
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Post by +.com (A.Lee)
Post by m***@hotmail.com
I've bough a s/h Beretta Silver Pigeon 20b for my lads.. The stock is
varnished, but looking a bit sad and in need of TLC.
I was hoping to strip & oil it - any ideas on how to do this?
I did an air-rifle stock last year, and it was the most time consuming,
boring, fiddly job ever invented.
Firstly I tried paint stripper to get off the varnish (later I found it
was both a varnish and dye). The stripper didnt even make it bubble.
Then came the electric sander.If you have 20 hours, and 40+ sanding
sheets available, that'll do it.
Finally I started scraping it off with a blade.This took 2 weeks of on
and off work.Maybe 2 hours if you are keen enough to do it in one go.
After the paint and varnish was all off, the stock looks rough, and will
need a lot of sanding.An electric sander does help here.
Once it is smooth, you then go over it with finer sandpaper, then when
really smooth, some wire wool.
I've since learnt that there is a product that will strip varnish and
dye in one go, so that would help enormously.
Next comes the oiling. Reckon on 10 coats for a bare wood.I treid
linseed oil, then proper walnut stock oil.I couldnt really tell the
difference, apart from the differing smells, and the 10x dearer cost of
the walnut oil.
I'm doing another air rifle stock this winter, if the dye/varnish doesnt
come off with a good paint stripper, then it is staying as it is, as I
just havent got the inclination to spend a month trying to get a stock
looking right.
Alan.
--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.
I'll leave the stripping to proprietry products Ronseal Nitromors et al
although I used a certain no bio washing powder soak on a Baikal
years ago and it pealed the varnish off like an orange. To get your oil
finish
mix equal quantities of boiled linseed oil and turpentine- this is
important
use only natural turpentine not turps substitute if you cant smell pine it's
not the real stuff ditto the linseed it has to be boiled. work it in with a
lint free cloth while you watch TV because the base coating is going to
take about an hour remember that karate kid movie circular movements -once
its nice and even leave it somewhere warm overnight to soak in and harden,
repeat daily for about a week (it takes less time once the base is
established) and then once a week for the next month at the end you should
have a good oil finish.
Derek

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